ArtLoving.net

INTRODUCTION

This is how I exploit and set up a D50.

Want free dwell telephone support, 24 hours a day, 365 days a 12 months? When you’re within the USA, call (800) NIKON-UX! Nikon additionally has some of it’s own operator’s tutorials here.

I start off explaining issues so simply my mother can understand, and get on to deciphering every menu item for advanced users on the bottom.

For extra examples of why you’d wish to change these settings and why, also see my Maui Picture Expedition page.

BASICS:

CAMERA

Many of those changes require you to be in be within the P, S, A or M publicity modes. You set that on the top dial. The cute preset modes often lock out some adjustments.

I leave most settings at their defaults and use the Program exposure mode. I by no means use the lovable little preset icon modes because I want to set anything particular myself.

ISO: I use 200. If the sunshine will get dim and my photographs would get blurry from slower shutter speeds I enhance the ISO to four hundred, 800 or 1,600. I by no means trouble with in-between settings like 250 or 640. The D50 appears effective at ISO 1,600 if you happen to want it. I’d a lot moderately have a barely grainy but sharp picture than a less grainy but blurry one. Not like movie, the D50 seems nice at high ISOs, so I exploit them anytime I would like them.

I would love to make use of ISO AUTO, however often do not as a result of it also stays energetic in Handbook publicity mode. This firmware defect defeats the aim of the manual exposure mode. Using menus to deactivate AUTO ISO for manual exposure mode takes more time than AUTO ISO saves. Rats.

White Stability (WB): I might use AUTO and an 81A glass warming filter on the lens. I choose hotter (oranger) images. I clarify white balance on my White Steadiness web page and explain more about tips on how to alter it on the D50 later.

QUAL: I shoot JPG NORMAL. That is called NORM and L on the top LCD, which stands for NORMal JPG compression and Large (three,008 x 2,000) picture size.

I’ve made 12 x 18″ prints of the identical shot made in BASIC, NORMAL, FINE and raw. I saw NO distinction! Significantly, should you noticed these prints you wouldn’t be able to type them out either. I can see solely the slightest variations on my monitor enlarged to a hundred%, which has similarities to a 20 x 30″ print, and my digital LCD monitor has 100% MTF pixel-to-pixel, which prints don’t. Don’t be concerned: should you need space, shoot BASIC and nobody will see the difference. The one strategy to inform is by wanting on the file size.

I’ll use BASIC for parties and sports activities once I’m shooting many lots of and a whole bunch of images at once. In these cases I am extra concerned with time wasted for the files to transfer, copy and archive. Fundamental appears ninety nine% the identical as FINE, even blown up big.

I’ll use FINE on rare events where I am shooting just some photos and anticipate to peer at them very closely. In these instances the additional measurement is not significant if I anticipate to be spending a number of time analyzing every image.

I avoid FINE JPG as a result of NORM provides me the identical results, with half the file size. If I shot FINE I might run out of room on a card and miss a shot. Missing a shot is a really visible defect, and I see no defects in NORM. Nikon is aware of what they’re doing. That’s why they call it Normal and that is why I normally use Regular JPG.

OPTIMIZE IMAGE: I choose the vivid coloration I get from Fuji’s Velvia 50 movie, so I tweak a D50 to provide shade as vivid as I can get. To do that go to MENU > Capturing Menu (camera icon) > Optimize Image > Customized > (set Saturation to + and Color Mode to IIIa) > – – Completed > OK. In the event you forget to select “- – Completed” and hit OK it will not keep in mind these settings! Particulars are on the Capturing Menu page.

For photos of people I either set the colors again to normal, or cheat and use the Portrait preset mode on the top dial.

FOCUS: AF.

METERING: Matrix.

LENS

Many lenses don’t have any switches or settings. If that’s the case, don’t worry.

More advanced lenses have focus mode settings, which will be both “M/A – A,” or “A – M” on older lenses.

On older lenses I go away it at “A,” which is Autofocus. “M” is handbook focus. Generally you even have to move the change on the camera, which is a pain.

If the switch says “M/A – A” then I take advantage of M/A. This offers autofocus, and if I seize the main target ring it immediately lets me make guide corrections. As quickly as I faucet the shutter button again I get autofocus. This M/A setting, if the lens has it, offers both kinds of focus without ever having to move any switches . It is the best.

Non-G lenses could have an aperture ring where the lens is hooked up to the camera. Set this this ring to the largest quantity, often 22, if not 32 or 16. This number will be in orange on autofocus lenses. There usually is a lock to maintain this ring set there, since if it comes off that setting you’ll get an error message from the D50.

At Gooddigitalcameras.net you’ll find products, information, and resources regarding nikon d50 software, review nikon d50, and nikon d50 problems.